Mojave (macOS 10.14) is great.
Xcode 10.0 (10A254a) is great.
Dark Mode is great.
What is not so great, unless I'm missing something, is this ugly gray background of the iOS simulator window (when in full screen):
Any idea on how to change that color?

I have the answer you seek.
Boot into recovery mode (Cmd+R while booting) and then open the Terminal.
cd /Volumes/Macintosh\ HD//if your drive is named something different, replace accordinglycsrutil disable//disables System Integrity Protectionmkdir AppleInternal//activates testing and custom commands in Apple apps, including Simulatorcsrutil enable//re-enable System Integrity Protectionreboot//back to regular environmentNow there's an "Internal" menu in the Simulator. In here, you can change loads of settings including the window's background color. It uses the regular OS X colour picker so you can even choose a hex code.