@-names in plain TeX

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Texinfo adds macros starting with '@'. I'm curious how to do that in plain TeX because I'm trying to create a simple TeX framework for my friends' needs and it would be more readable for them.

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texinfo essentially replaces plain TeX's backslash with the at sign. This is done by setting the so-called \catcode of the at sign to 0.

Note that with this setting, @command means exactly the same as \command, you don't get a second family of command names.

Note also that designing and implementing a new TeX format is a lot of work; it is much easier to resort to one of the existing TeX formats.