It seems that I can't set navigationItem.largeTitleDisplayMode = .always unless I also set navigationBar.prefersLargeTitles = true? Is this intended behavior?
I'm having a really hard time believing apple would force me to manually set largeTitleDisplayMode = .never on every screen in the navigation controller, even ones I don't control, in order to get just a single screen to show with large titles.
You can try controlling this via UINavigationControllerDelegate.willShow calls like this.
UPDATE
The other option would be to do this same management on
viewWillAppear(_:)&viewWillDisappear(_:)calls for the rootViewController instance in your navigation stack.